Question:
I'm interested in buying a model sail boat, but I have no idea what I
need or the prices on different models...
Do you have any sugestions on a starters boat?
Answer:
-With the steadily growing popularity of radio controlled models, the
number of people interested in owning a model yacht has also grown in
geometric range. a with model aircraft, the choice of sailing models
runs the gamut from child's toy to sophisticated craft.
Over the past twenty three years I have fielded many questions
regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a
radio controlled sailboat.
Three questions are asked over and over by prospective skippers: How
do the radio controls work? How Much do they cost? What do I look for
when I buy mine?
The modern R/C model sailing craft is as different from a toy boat as
a museum display model is from a child's tinker toy creation. A model
sailing craft operates with the same sophistication of design as any
full sized yacht. The generally accepted minimum radio control system
has two channels. Each pair of units, radio transmitter and radio
receiving system, operates in a discrete frequency so that several
radio control units can be operated at the same time and location
without interfering with one another.
When two or more models have the same radio frequency, a frequency
conflict exists, and the skippers have to take turns on the pond.
Racing models should be equipped so they can be operated on two or
more frequencies, to minimize frequency conflicts. The number of
channels refers to the number of functions the set will control
directly. The basic two-channel systems allows discrete control of
steering on one channel, while the second channel operates the sail
control unit which sets the position of the sails. The only power
units aboard the modern racing models are the sail control and the
radio batteries. Propulsion for the model is provided by the sails.
Stability - the ability of the model not to tip over is a
function of hull design, and most models have ballast keels,
Unlike many full-sized racing boats, centerboards are seldom
found on racing models. Like full sized keel boats, model
yachts will sink if they fill up with water. For this reason a
fiberglass hull is a top choice for beginners unless he has the skill
to plank up a watertight hull. To insure the hull stays dry inside so
the model wont sink and, equally important, to keep the radio receiver
and equipment dry, the hatch should be designed for easy removal and
yet be sealed tight for sailing.
Within the hull space are: a standard radio-controlled receiver,
batteries for the receiver, a sail winch for trimming the sails,
batteries for the sail winch, and two or more servo mechanisms which
steer the boat and control the winch. Rechargeable batteries are in
order, since the typical operation span of most systems is about one
day's racing or two plus hours of continuous operation. Dry batteries
have the disadvantage of needing frequent replacement (they are not
rechargeable) but they offer the advantage of giving some warning that
they are getting low since they drop slowly in voltage as the
discharge. NiCds, although rechargeable, do drop suddenly in voltage
once they get on the edge of discharge. One of the most common
problems a skipper encounters is the loss of battery power while his
model is out on the pond. Very often what appears to be outside
interference to the radio turns out to be low batteries in the radio
control system which cause the receiver to act weird.
As for actual operation of the model: by manipulating the controls of
his radio transmitter unit on the shore, the skipper controls the
steering and the sails on the model. The model can be sailed as if it
were a full size yacht.
With any hobby-sport, the cost of the model reflects its degree of
sophistication. The market is supplied by a number of highly qualified
one-man companies as well as a handful of larger companies. This mix
allows the modeler to choose from top quality boats from $100 up. In
general, the cost of model yachting parallels the cost of sport
fishing and golf. While some models may have a useful life of many
years, others become obsolete in a year. A good source of inexpensive
models is the used model marketplace. However, a large number of the
same class or type being offered used at the same time may be a
warning sign there is something less desirable about that type of
model.
Almost without exception the uninitiated spectator who has been
watching a model out sailing and the sees it brought ashore will
express surprise at how big it is. That little model you see out on
the pond can be eight feet long and weigh up to eighty pounds. Unless
you sail in a swimming pool, the rule of thumb is: the larger the
model the easier to sail. and one of the most important considerations
is its size other things being equal. If you can not see the model
well enough to distinguish wind changes on the sails and reaction to
the controls, you will be unable to operate it among a fleet of models
sailing offshore.
The distance to which we can sail our model is limited not by the
range of the radio transmitter and the receiver in the control system
but by the capability of the human eye. Beyond a certain point we
cannot see the boat well enough to set the sails properly. Visibility
is crucial for setting sail trim and course and also for avoiding
collisions.
From a practical standpoint, the minimum overall length is 36 inches
if you plan to sail with other larger models/ The large "J" boats and
"A" Class boats measuring eight feet in length represent the upper
limit. In selecting you model size consider: where you will store the
model when not in use; how you will transport it to the water's edge;
what is involved in launching it (depth of water required, bulk of
model etc.).
At the time of purchase you'll need to consider having the model kit
delivered to you, some models exceed the UPS size restrictions. The
same considerations must be given to the spars for your model. a tall
one piece mas t may be very expensive to have shipped. If you overlook
the shipping costs, you may find the shipping more costly than the
model itself...unfortunate but sometimes true.
Sailing models weigh from five pounds to over eighty pounds. consider
the launching ability of most adults. Larger models may require a cart
or two persons for launching.
The sails on a model are left attached to the spars rather than furled
or stowed as they would be on a big boat. In the home it may be hard
to find space to stow away a ten foot mast with sails and boom
attached.
A quality model can be an investment lasting many years. some modelers
have models that have been past along for a couple of generations.
Classification of models into classes for racing has been going on for
years under the leadership of the American Model Racing association.
The AMYA has been very active in promoting the R/C racing of sailing
models, and its leadership provides the format in interclub and
national regattas. Not all model sail boats are AMYA oriented.
The yacht classes presented here are some of the formula classes.
Rather than try and handicap differing models, a set of ground rules
was established with a wide range of individual variation still
possible between models. The largest fleet of racing models is to be
found in the 50/00 or international Marblehead Class. The formula is
quite simple and requires the model to have a mono-hull which is fifty
inches long and to carry not more than 800 square inches of sail. a
vast number of differing designs can be developed to fit the 50/800
formula. This is an extremely competitive racing class and a modeler
can expect a model to be extremely high tech and quickly obsolete. In
1995 there are 50/800 kits selling for more than $2000.00. There are
smaller size formula classes such as s the one meter and the 36/600
models. There are other formula classes such as the "A" Class. "A"
boats tend to be big and heavy and most are scratch built.
The best buys for the model owner may be found in the one design
classes. The distinguishing feature here is the requirement that all
the models within each of the one-design classes must be identical.
This feature prevents the models from becoming obsolete within its
class because of age or because of some innovation being made in the
boat design. The Star 45 Class, based on the International Star Boat,
is a one design class that has been around for over twenty five years.
There are hundreds of sailing craft to choose from out side the AMYA
classes. When you scale a full sized boat down to model size the
resulting sail area will be larger than the model requires. so
stability is a concern. Either you have to start with a boat that has
plenty of beam and will yield a stable model or make changes to the
model. For example my large Friendship Sloops (56 in LOA) are stable
but the same Friendship at 28 inches LOA is much to tender to sail
without swamping. In this example an external keel is added to the
scale hull for sailing and removed when the model is on display. The
Star 45 model has a much longer keel with ballast bulb and not the
scale keel of a full size Star. Models of the Constitution require an
external keel, schooners often require a lead shoe added to their
keels.
Hull materials will depend on your personal choice of how to build the
model. Wood and aircraft plywood are fine if you have the necessary
skill and if you use waterproof glues. You can buy or mould high
quality reinforced plastic hulls such as fiberglass, carbon fiber and
other fiberglass like materials. The hull should have an exterior
coating of gel coat resin and the weight of the hull if purchased
should be specified. Excessive resin in the lay-up will not only make
the hull overweight but it will contribute to a fragile model.
A ready to sail model should include the ballast material. Many
modelers are shocked to find how difficult and costly it can be to get
lead or lead shot.
