Question:
Boat is a '71 Chrysler 18' bowrider with a Chrysler 105 outboard. Hour
meter shows 93 hours; from the signs I've seen, it's probably a correct
(or close to) reading.
Floor is rotted/weak overall, and I've removed a section just aft the
windshield, and two large (2x6 or 2x8) structural members running
fore-aft have rot in the section that I can see. Are these the
stringers? I'm going to remove the entire floor and see what overall
condition they are in.
What is an acceptable repair here? total replacement? sectional
replacement? Can I 'sister' or sandwich new board on either side of the
rotted ones? Any books or websites to recommend?
The boat, in my eyes, isn't economically realistic to have
professionally fixed. If I do the work myself I want a structurally safe
repair, but 'prettiness' isn't a concern. I'd like to be able to use
this boat for a season or two, to determine if it's worth it to me to go
out and buy a newer boat. I'd rather not go out and drop $5k-$10k or
more, only to find out boating really isn't my thing.
Answer:
-You are correct in stating that the boat is not worth professional
repair. This will be a huge job that you probably should not attempt.
Very time consuming and not at all inexpensive. If you try and sister
the stringers you could be causing some real safety concerns.
I can almost guarantee that if you do attempt this job on your own you
will find that boating repair is not your thing. This is a real dirty,
itchy, nasty job that probably would best be left undone.
-all that difficult or expensive. Just takes time (more than you think) and
patience.
There are lots of books in the library about boat repair and
fiberglass/woodworking in general.
I completely replaced all the stringers and flooring in my old 21' GlasPly.
Total cost was under $300.00 using marine ply. It might cost you more since
I was able to get most of the glass materials for free. It took my brother
and I 6 or 7 weekends. I'm a good carpenter and he works for a fiberglass
tank builer (hence the free stuff).
It is a LOT of work - often in tight spaces. You may have to remove almost
all the wireing, batteries, fuel tank, stearing cables, seats, instrument
panel etc etc.
And if you don't take lots of detail measurements and notes, things won't go
back in quite rite :) Read do it twice! About half way thru we got smart and
took lots of digital pics.
-I have done the job you describe numerous times, some for myself some for
hire. It's not difficult, just time consuming.
I wouldn't consider partial replacements unless some parts are in perfect
condition. Several boats ago, I began using CCA Pressure Treated Woods for
the frames, stringers and flooring. Allow it to dry as good as possible
before installing it. I don't want to do the job a second time some years
later! As you work, be certain to support the boat in a manner that will
not cause a "hook" in the bottom, a hook will seriously affect the boats
performance. If anything, now is a good time to add just a bit of rock
inches forward of the transom. You'll be surprised how it improves the top
end speed.
Unfortunately I find myself "wollering" on the floor with side arm grinders
dressing out the old material and pulling old glass mat or cloth loose.
The back of my legs and my "bottom" itch for several days thereafter! Wear
a good respirator while grinding the material, the glass particles are not
good to breathe.
Next time I do this job it has been suggested to me to coat my legs and
"bottom" with baby talc to keep the glass particles out of my skin, anything
is worth a try!
When it is time to do the glass lay-up step, I get help. Someone outside
the boat mixing the resin and hardener in manageable quantities, and if
possible, someone in the boat with me to assist, especially when doing the
floor. Be certain to coat both sides of the floor plywood before installing
it.
Lot of steps, but nothing difficult nor critical, just messy, and as
suggested in other posts
