Question:
I have used a NRS PT paddle, Aqua-Bound paddle (I think Manta).
I'm looking to get either a aluminum shaft Aqua-bound Manta Ray, or a
Werner Skagit paddle. I liked the Mantra Ray. Never tried a Werner but
lots of people swear by them. I definitly want to get something with a
Asymmetrical blade. I'm 6-3 240 pounds.
Need a Aluminum Paddle Boat I can do a self rescue with.
Would I break a fiberglass paddle?
What size paddle should I get? 230cm or a 240cm?
Should I get a narrower but longer blade? Or a wider but shorter blade?
I don't even really have a paddling style yet. Most of you guys are
going to say I'm just going to have to go try a bunch of paddles.
Most places let you try different boats (that is what I did) but I
don't think many let you try different paddles.
Answer:
-You could break a steel paddle if you wanted to. If you break a paddle in a
self-rescue, that would mean that either you've done it wrong or the paddle was
previously damaged. It's also possible that you are doing the rescue in really
horrendous conditions. A solidly build paddle of any type - wood, fiberglass,
carbon fiber or aluminum - will stand up to normal rescue practice and use.
Make sure you know how to do these rescues. You do not put all your weight on
the paddle - only enough to keep you stable.
You might even want 220 or shorter. You will have to try them and decide. The
length of the paddle will depend on the length of the blades. You should choose
the shaft length on the basis of your arm lengths, grip position, width of the
kayak and height above the water. Then you decide on the blade you want and
whatever the two blades plus shaft add up to is the length you want.
The blade should comfortably be set into the water to the root at the catch. A
shorter shaft can cause you to overpower the blade at the catch. A longer shaft
will just waste energy in turning the kayak unnecessarily.
-I used to be a rep for Werner so maybe my .02 cents will count worth .03
cents. One thing to look for is swing weight. You want a paddle that
doesn't have alot of weight out on the blades. The less weight the better.
Also the lighter the paddle overall the better. After paddling a long ways
you will no doubt begin to feel the weight of the paddle in your hands and
it's gets tiresome. An aluminum paddle will most likely be very heavy over
time. Fiberglass paddles will stand up to quite a bit of weight so I
wouldn't be concerned about breaking one easily. Any paddle can break if
enough force is put onto it. Just learn how to do a re-entry the correct
way and don't put all the weight on your paddle. I would also look at
getting the longer blades instead of the shorter one's if you are planning
on doing recreational paddling or a relaxed stroke (low angle). If you're
paddling with your arms down in front of your chest that would be a low
angle stroke. If you're paddling with them higher (as for fitness or
whitewater) then that would be a high angle stoke, thus the shorter blades.
Having blades with a dihedral helps alot as well. The dihedral will help
divert the water off the sides of the blade helping to prevent the paddle
from fluttering in the water. Depending on what kind of kayak you have will
have a good bit to do with the length of your paddle as well as the type of
paddling you're doing. From the one's you mentioned, Aquabound and Werner
would fit this the best. I would stay away from aluminum if you can. Can
you tell us what boat you have and what you want to do out on the water?
